Simone Moro

Simone Moro is an Italian mountaineer, born October 27, 1967 in Bergamo, Italy. He is the first and only mountaineer to achieve the first winter ascents of four peaks over 8,000 meters: Shisha Pangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. Moro is also a helicopter pilot experienced holder of many records. Encouraged by his father, a high-level mountaineer and motorcyclist, in his passion for the high mountains, he began at the age of 13, by climbing the Pizzo della Presolana and other massifs of the Bergamasque Alps while continuing his studies until the end of his university studies. In 1992, he made his first expedition to Everest. A year later, Moro climbed Aconcagua, making the first winter ascent. In 1996 Moro climbed the west face of Fitz Roy (3,341 m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the top of the wall. The same year, he reached the southern summit of Shisha Pangma (8,008 m) without oxygen in 27 hours and then made a descent on skis from 7,100 meters. In 1997, he successfully climbed Lhotse. During the winter of 1997, during his attempt to climb the south face of Annapurna, his rope companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev disappeared in an avalanche. He returned to Everest in 1998; then succeeded in climbing four peaks: Peak Lenin (7,134 m), Peak Korjenevskoy (7,105 m), Peak Ismail Somoni (7,495 m), Peak Khan Tengri (7,010 m) with the Kazakh Denis Urubko; and succeeded with him the ascent of Everest in 2000 and the first winter of the Marble Wall in 2001.